Vikings!

We woke up this morning to sunshine!!! Although it was still cold, it was the first time we have seen the sun in days. Actually, the sun starting shining around 1 am, which unfortunately we saw because we haven't been able to sleep very well. Not sure if it is the time change or if it is the endless light.

The trip from Rolvsfjord to Leknes was stunning. The coastline was so beautiful. You could stop every 2 minutes to take photos, but then we wouldn't get anywhere. We've posted some of our favourites on here. Our legs got a good workout going up and over a mountain pass today - about 450 metres over 2 km - but the view from the top and the downhill were well worth it.

We arrived in Leknes, a small town of about 2,000 people, to drop off our luggage. We then cycled to Borg to visit the Viking Museum, Lofotr. The museum is a reconstruction of the largest chieftain viking longhouse ever found. The original longhouse remnants on the site date back to 500 A.D. The vikings used this site until 950 A.D., and it remains an important area throughout the iron age and medieval times.

Kevin tried out the reconstructed viking boat that was found in Borg.

Our legs and butts are starting to get a little sore, but the 50 km days are behind us. Tomorrow we tackle the tunnel below sea level. We're not looking forward to this part. We have already been through one tunnel and there were no lights, of course lots of traffic, and some strange sounds coming from the deep caverns. The local folklore talks about the Norweigan trolls...maybe we'll see one tomorrow. Scratch that, maybe we'll hear one, assuming that we won't be able to see a thing.

We are off to the southern Lofoten island over the next several days, much more remote and quiet. We hope to do some hiking and see some Puffins, little beautiful birds.

We may be out of web access until we reach Stockholm or Tallinn, could be about a week for another update. Hope y'all in Calgary don't get snow.

Stockfish

After a night at the climbing hostel in Henningsvaer, we packed up and started the very scenic ride to Rolvsfjord. It is very obvious why there is lots of rock climbing here, there are massive vertical rock faces everywhere, and apparently great pow in the dark winter. In Henningsvaer we got our first close look at Stockfish. Stockfish is a technique that is over 1000 years old where fresh Cod is hung in the open air, without any preparation, from March to June. The first month nets cover the fish, but after that, the fish just hangs in the open air to dry out. We bought a small piece, but have yet to sum up the courage to eat it, it smells very fishy. We'll let you know how it tastes.

The road trip to Rolsfjord was about 50 km of incredible scenery. The winding road was along a large fjord that we cycled the full distance of , and crossed two very tall and cool road bridges. The weather was slighty better, but still cloudy and windy. The quality of light seems the same at 1:00 am or at 10:00am. The sun does set at this latitude (about 69 degrees) at this time of year, but it does not get dark at all. You could easily read a book outdoors anytime. I think the sunset is only below the horizon for 2 or 3 hours right now.

The next day we are off to Leknes and a Viking musuem.

Biking in Lofoten

After very little sleep, we boarded a flight to Bodo Norway, via Oslo at 7 am. Bodo is a very nice town, good thing given that Monday was a holiday and all the ferries were cancelled except for the one leaving at 8:30 pm. We arrived in Svolvaer, the main town on the Lofoten Islands around 11:30 p.m. After some unplanned sightseeing, we eventually found our rorbuer (Norweigan fishing hut) around 1 am, and we were finally able to get some sleep.

Today was a new day and feeling moderately rested we got our maps, bikes and set out. We biked to a small town called Henningsvaer, which is absolutely beautiful. The islands are difficult to describe, but to us they feel like a cross between Baffin Island, Newfoundland and Patagonia.

The weather is cool with rain off and on. The hats and mitts, and multiple jackets are definitely a must.

Norway has reminded us that everything is relative. Sweden seemed very expensive before we arrived here. If Sweden was expensive, Norway is ridiculously expensive. Also, we had read that the Lofoten Islands were flat. Whoever wrote that must have come through several large mountain passes before biking here.

Tomorrow is a long day of biking, approximately 50 km. We are looking forward to the "flat" road ahead.

Heading to Bodo and Lofoten Norway

City Hall

City Hall, Vasa Museum, Sunday May 23

Today was cold, rainy and very windy. In other words, it was a great day to do indoor activities. The tour of Stockholm City Hall was interesting. The building is far more grand than Calgary’s, despite being built around the same time. Most notably, City Hall is known for its’ Blue Hall, which hosts the annual Nobel dinner and celebrations.

Even the Council chamber was elaborate and looked like it was designed for royalty. We both chuckled when our guide said that there is 101 members of Stockholm City Council, and that residents are not interested in Council activities because of the lengthy debates. Stockholm is larger than Calgary, with 1.9 million residents, but 101 members, that is a lot of Councillors!

In the afternoon, we ventured over to the island of Djurgarden to check out the Vasa Museum. The museum features a naval ship that sank in Stockholm harbour back in 1628. After spending 333 years at the bottom of the harbour, it was slowly recovered and restored. It was well worth standing in the long line-up in the pouring rain.

We found a grocery store today so we were about to buy a number of items for our bike trip in Norway. It’s always fun to try new things, but we had to draw the line at the salami in a squeeze tube. Well, Karen wasn’t into the idea of squeeze tube meat.

Tomorrow we fly from Stockholm to Oslo, and then onto Bodo. From Bodo we’ll take a 3 hour ferry over to the Lofoten Islands. We may not have computer access during this leg of the trip. We’ll be sure to post some of our photos when we can. Despite the cold and rainy forecast, we are really looking forward to our bike trip.

Gamla Stan, Stockholm, Saturday May 22

Saturday was a beautiful warm and sunny day – perfect for our 8 hour walking tour. From our hotel we wondered along the pedestrian pathways and crossed over into Gamla Stan. Gamla Stan is the oldest part of Stockholm, where some of the old walls date back to the 13th Century. Most of Gamla Stan is a maze of narrow, cobble stone streets lined with 17th and 18th Century buildings.

We started the tour at the Royal Palace to watch the parade of the guards. Based on the size of the crowd, many others had a similar plan. The Royal Palace was completed in 1754. We were able to view the State Apartments, dating back to the 1690s, and the Royal Treasury which housed historic crowns and swords. Unfortunately, much of the palace was closed to the public due to preparations for the Royal wedding in June.

We ended the day with a visit to the Riddarholmen Church, the oldest remaining building, dating back to 1290. This is where much of the Swedish Royal families have been buried.

We can confirm that Sweden is expensive. For whatever reason, a dish at dinner is 3 times more expensive than the same dish at lunch, and the taxes are hefty. Taxes range between 25% and 37%, depending on what you buy.

Landed in Stockholm

We have arrived in Stockholm!

And only 17 hours from our house! Awesome high speed train from airport to downtown.

Having a couple of cold pints and enjoying the view over Gamla Stan (Old Town). We are plotting out the tours for the next couple of days and plan to visit the Royal Palace, take a boat tour of Stockholm's historic canals, and go for a run in "Deer Park." Heh Stuart, Madelaine King was on our flight to London, she asked about you ;-)

Trip map

10 days and counting

Our departure date is almost here and of course the "to do" list and the "to buy" list are still growing. After months of research and endless visits to online translation services, we have everything booked, or as much as we can do from here, and we are getting ready to go.

The trip will be a whirlwind adventure taking in 5 countries in 3.5 weeks! We will experience the land of the midnight sun, cycle through fjords 250 km north of the Arctic Circle, tour a medieval city, experience efficient scandinavian design (aka very small hotel rooms), and explore Russian culture including the ballet,the Hermitage and visits to several palaces that were once home to Peter, and Catherine, the Great.

Now we just have to figure out how to pack rain and biking gear, cold weather, summer and dress clothes, and multiple types of footwear, etc. into 55 litre packs!